Matilda on Tour - Snow, Sea and Spring Sunshine

Friday 27 March 2026 — Opatija

Day 27 — Mountains behind us, sea in front
Kvarner Bay, Croatia 🇭🇷

Back on the road again today, which actually felt really good.

We hadn't travelled that far, but it was quite a tough drive — winding around and through the mountains, definitely the scenic route. The views were incredible, and as we approached our stop we could see snow-topped peaks with the city of Rijeka in the distance.

It already felt very different here — tucked between the mountains and the sea.
But that feeling dipped slightly when we arrived to find the site closed, with a notice saying it didn’t open until 1 April.

Luckily, a lady arrived and said we could still park for the night, just without facilities. She wanted €25, but after a bit of negotiation we managed to get electric thrown in too.

It’s a small site, but the view is amazing, with the town close by and a coast path that seems to stretch on for miles.

After lunch we headed out on foot and followed that path, walking around 2½ miles into Opatija. It was a really good walk — peaceful, with views out to the sea and across to the snow-covered mountains.

Along the way we spotted a couple of cormorants perched out on the rocks, watching the water below.

The town itself has a very different feel. It was developed during the Austro-Hungarian period, with the railway, power and running water all brought in to support the grand hotels.

You can still sense that now — the buildings have a slightly faded, almost royal feel to them. We did notice that quite a few of the older buildings are looking a little worn now, which adds to that character.

We stopped for a coffee and a bit of a sit down before heading back.

Back at the van we sat outside, wrapped up against the cold, enjoying the view as the sun dropped behind the mountains, turning the snow a soft orange.

Then the lights began to appear across the city, adding another dimension to the view.

We’re really enjoying the change of scene — not sure it’s cycling country though, those mountains look very steep!

Saturday 28 March 2026 — Opatija to  Starigrad Paklenica

Day 28 — A day that turned out very differently

Kvarner Bay, Croatia 🇭🇷

It was a beautiful morning — blue skies and the sea rippling gently in front of us.

After a relaxed start, we decided it was time to move on. Time is ticking by, and we both felt the need to get going again.

Very soon we were on the autoroute. I remember thinking it was going to be a nice, easy day.

But Garmin had other ideas.

The satnav took us off the autoroute and back to the coast, sending us up, down and round on an incredibly scenic route.

We stopped for lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea — a lovely spot to pause before deciding which way to go next.

It was decision time.

The road heading up away from the coast looked the best option, so we followed Google.

At first, it felt like a great choice.

But the road climbed higher and higher, turning into tight switchbacks with steep drops on either side. I was not the most relaxed passenger even though Richard was taking it easy.

And then we hit the snow line - we weren't expecting that!!

Snow ploughs were out, the roads were clear and we just kept climbing — up and up — with incredible views but definitely not for the faint hearted.

After reaching the top, the road wound its way back down and thankfully eventually brought us back onto an autoroute.

It was an easier drive and we made better time, passing through numerous tunnels, along a snow lined route - our first journey on a Croatian toll road. As we came out of the last long tunnel, the snow had gone — just like that.

It suddenly felt different again. Warmer, more Mediterranean, stony and dry. Hard to describe, but a definite shift.

We picked up a quieter coastal road for the final stretch, heading towards the site, fingers crossed it would be open.

And then we arrived.

What a place — one of those where you just say wow.

We’re right by the sea in a really quiet cove, a path snaking its way into the village and fabulous views all around.

Definitely looking forward to exploring tomorrow.

Sunday 29 March 2026 — Paklenica National Park

Day 29 — Wind, cliffs and a very strange “cry for help”
Dalmatia, Croatia 🇭🇷

An interesting night, as we felt the full force of the bora wind — a strong, cold wind that sweeps down from the mountains — rocking the van through the night.

The morning felt a little flat because of it, and we ended up having a slow start to the day.

Once we eventually got going, we packed lunch and headed to Paklenica National Park, known for its dramatic canyons and sheer limestone cliffs that rise sharply from the valley floor.

It wasn’t quite what we were expecting, but it turned into a decent challenge — around two miles uphill, climbing roughly 1,200 feet, steeper and rougher than we’d imagined for what we thought would be a fairly flat walk.

The canyon itself was spectacular, with sharp cliff faces full of different colours and textures. It’s clearly a famous place for rock climbing, and it was fascinating to watch people making their way up the rock and then abseiling back down. The hooks are fixed into the various routes, all numbered and graded.

Further on, we heard what sounded like someone shouting for help. It got louder and louder, and for a moment we really thought someone was in trouble.

Then I spotted a goat high up on the cliff face.

Not a person at all — which was quite a relief.

It was a slightly odd trail in one way though. For such a popular route, there was nothing to tell you when you’d actually reached the top — the mountains just stretched on forever, with snow on the more distant peaks.

A really enjoyable afternoon .

After the walk we drove down to the beach for a well-earned coffee before heading back to the site.

So peaceful - sitting outside the van, the sun slowly setting over the sea. The wind has finally dropped, it’s a little chilly, but a very pleasant way to end the day.

Monday 30 March — Starigrad Paklenica
Day 30 — Calm seas, quiet roads, and a touch of spring
Dalmatia, Croatia 🇭🇷

What an absolutely fabulous start to the day — the bora wind had gone, the sun was shining, and there was barely a ripple on the sea.

The mat was out first thing — blue sky, still air, and the sun just starting to break through. Yoga… what a treat.

We took our time getting going but once the route was sorted, we set off, keen to get pedalling. The legs felt good as we hit the first hill, mountains in front of us and new views opening up as we climbed.

It was a there-and-back route, but we managed a really good stretch heading up towards the mountains. The views opened out as we went — quiet, wide, and one of those rides that just felt easy.

Cycling past we disturbed a brown snake basking on the road, soaking up the heat — a quick reminder to stay alert out here.

Then we saw what looked like an old castle in the distance — grey, round, sitting on the edge of the headland.

What a find. One of those places where you could just sit for a while and watch the world drift by.

Signs of spring are everywhere — fig trees with leaves just bursting through, wild flowers lining the roadside, and blossom starting to appear on the trees.

Back at the van, the afternoon stretching out ahead of us — time to relax, and just feeling grateful to have found this place.

A late afternoon walk found us stopping for a couple of beers and some food.

The bar had that rustic feel — music playing, a bit of warmth from the heater, and just a really nice atmosphere to sit and relax for a while.

It felt like the perfect way to round off the day — that back-to-nature feel, with a lovely evening to finish.

Where next… Split tomorrow.

A few days that could hardly have been more different — mountain roads, snow, fierce winds, calm seas, a fabulous ride, and the first real signs of spring in Croatia. That’s what I’m loving about this trip. Just when you think you’ve settled into one kind of place, the road opens up and everything changes again.