Wharfedale CAMC, Yorkshire Dales
Joanne Oakley
After weeks of unsettled weather, a decent forecast was all we needed to point Matilda north and head for the Yorkshire Dales. It was a new area for both of us, but close enough to home to make an easy long weekend — and we were more than ready to get away.
We arrived late on the Friday afternoon after a slow, stop–start journey. The traffic wasn’t great, but pulling into the campsite made it worthwhile. It’s a really lovely site — generous pitches, spotless facilities and friendly wardens.
On the Saturday we headed off on the bikes straight from the site, following the River Wharfe, which runs close by, before picking up quiet lanes that led us into Grassington.
Grassington itself was busy, with plenty of tourist shops, pubs and cafés. It’s well known as a filming location for All Creatures Great and Small, which makes it something of a tourist hotspot. We enjoyed a pub lunch there before heading back out into the hills — a nice contrast to the quieter riding earlier in the day.
After lunch we headed up into the hills on a very hilly loop, which gave us some great views of the surrounding countryside. The climbs were tough in places, but it was a really enjoyable ride and a good way to see more of the area.
The cycling around here is proper Dales riding: rolling stretches along the river followed by steady climbs that open out into fabulous views. Some of the hills are tough — those short, sharp climbs that catch you out just when you think you’ve earned your lunch — but the quiet lanes and scenery make it worth the effort. It’s the sort of riding where you don’t see many cars, just sheep, dry-stone walls and views stretching across the countryside.
A simple but lovely first day on the bikes. The great views, fresh air and that feeling of being happily tired by the time we rolled back to camp
On our final full day we followed a local Strava route, which turned out to be a good call. Locals really do know the best lanes. The ride took us towards Bolton Abbey, with a great little café stop along the way before wandering around the Abbey itself. It’s far more impressive than I’d imagined and well worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Even when plans don’t quite go to plan — a riverside path that turned out not to allow bikes, or a lane on the opposite bank that was more undulating than expected — the area still rewards you with quiet roads, testing little climbs and constantly changing views.
Today felt like a proper Dales ride: steeper climbs, quiet lanes and sweeping views. A peaceful, satisfying day on the bikes.
📍 Today’s Route
There was a good choice of pubs a short drive from the sight but on the Sunday night we took a short walk over to Long Ashes Park to The Gamekeepers Inn, which had a warm, friendly feel and good food. We also discovered the holiday park has a pool and spa that visitors can pay to use — something we’d happily keep in mind for another visit.
All in all, this felt like a really good Dales break — quiet lanes, great views and ideal for a weekend away. The campsite worked brilliantly as a base, and it’s definitely somewhere we’d return to, ideally with a bit more time to explore further afield. Thanks to Sue for a spot-on recommendation.
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