Matilda on Tour - Through the Alps — Lakes, Mountains and Unexpected Stops

Thursday 12 March 2026 — Ulm to Füssen

Day 12 — From breakdown to the Alps
Bavaria, Germany 🇩🇪

Last night didn’t quite go to plan.

We returned to the van after a visit to the laundrette only to find it wouldn’t start. A very kind man passing by tried to help — engines are his thing — but even his best efforts couldn’t get it going.

So I rang breakdown.

An hour and forty-five minutes later the recovery truck arrived and confirmed the problem — a flat battery.

A new one was needed, but first we had to drive the van ourselves back to the campsite and hope it didn’t stall.

Fair play to Richard — the conditions were awful: dark, wet and full of twists and turns.

Once back we packed up the bikes and outdoor gear in the pouring rain 🌧️ before heading to a nearby garage where we slept in the van and waited for the workshop to open in the morning.

We even had a slightly odd visitor around 12:30 — someone walked around the van a few times, banged on the door, and then wandered off again.

Not quite the peaceful night we had planned.

There was a real sense of relief once the battery was sorted. After a few hours at the garage we were finally able to leave Ulm late in the morning.

The drive to Füssen was straightforward, and before long we were right on the edge of the Alps 🏔️.

There were touches of snow on the mountains — not much, but enough to remind us where we were — while the higher peaks were mostly hiding in the clouds. After such a wet night it was good to see some sunshine again ☀️.

We’ve opted for a fairly basic campsite, but it has everything we need and it’s an easy walk into town.

This afternoon we wandered into, Füssen, it has some beautiful buildings and plenty of tourist-type shops, we enjoyed a good wander, obviously a few photos were taken.

After a bit of searching we eventually found a quiet bar in a hotel where we could sit down for a drink 🍺. It was very peaceful — although it is midweek.

We’re both feeling quite tired today. A night on a garage forecourt doesn’t make for the best sleep.

For now we’ve booked two nights here. Tomorrow we’ll get the bikes out and explore a little more of the area 🚴‍♀️.

Friday 13 March 2026 — Füssen

Day 13 — Diamonds on the lake
Bavaria, Germany 🇩🇪

This morning we woke to deep blue skies. It was chilly, but with the promise of a great day ahead.

With so many Strava routes to choose from, it didn’t take long before we were getting the bikes ready 🚴‍♀️

What can I say — the area is stunning. Snow-topped mountains in the distance, eagles circling overhead and lakes shimmering in the sunlight. One in particular caught the light so perfectly it looked as though tiny diamonds were scattered across the surface — I think it’s the first time I’ve ever seen a lake truly sparkle like that.

The cycle paths were excellent all the way, gently undulating without any of the hideous climbs we sometimes encounter.

On the way back we spotted the perfect lunch stop. We both opted for the traditional Bavarian dish of Weißwurst with sweet mustard, pickles and a pretzel. The food at the café was delicious. Inside, the décor was beautiful too — warm wood and traditional touches everywhere.

The route came in at just under 23 miles — far enough for Richard.

Later we walked into town for a couple of beers. The sun was still shining and it seemed a pity not to make the most of it. Sitting on the main street with a drink in hand, the setting was perfect.

Later in the evening we had a small camper-van lesson. With the oven on and two burners going, the carbon monoxide alarm suddenly started sounding. Windows flew open and we stepped outside for a few minutes while the van aired through.

It was a useful reminder of just how quickly things can build up in such a small space. From now on it’s simple — more ventilation and fewer things running at once.

This has been another fabulous find — beautiful scenery, first-class cycling and a great stopover.Tonight the electric hook-up is doing the heating and Matilda is calm again.

Another little learning moment from life on the road 🚐.

Saturday 14 March 2026 — Grubhof, Lofer

Day 23 — A day at the spa campsite
Salzburg Region, Austria

Two weeks on the road already — the time is flying by.

After a wonderful day yesterday it was time to move on again. The weather is getting a lot colder, so it seemed sensible to try to get through the Alps a little quicker. It’s a shame really, because it was such a fabulous place.

We travelled about 250 km today and are now staying near St. Martin bei Lofer, right in the Austrian Alps. The campsite is surrounded by huge mountains, which makes it feel quite spectacular. 🏔️

The drive down was really picturesque. We took a scenic route for much of the journey, passing through small towns and beautiful countryside before the mountains began to close in around us.

The only slight drama came when Richard was stopped for speeding as we came out of one of the towns. A car had overtaken him and I suspect he briefly grew horns trying to keep up.

The policeman was very pleasant though. It felt like he didn’t really want to fine him, and Richard got off quite lightly with a €35 fine.

There are definitely no bargain campsites in Austria. This one is €47 a night, although it includes access to a fabulous spa — so really it feels a bit of a bargain.

The campsite is set above the valley with mountains all around. There are quite a few long-term caravans here, the whole place has a really relaxed feel. The bathrooms are more like private hotel bathrooms than campsite facilities, and with the spa area and mountain views it feels less like a stopover and more like somewhere you’d happily stay for a few days. 🚿

I ventured out on the bike for a short ride, just five miles there and back. It was getting chilly by then. The cycle path itself was good, although the road noise spoiled it a little. I did manage to take a few nice photos along the way though. 🚴📷

Later we checked out the amazing spa. It was a bit of a shock though — we were very overdressed in our swimmers! 😄

Now we’re tucked up in the van, listening to the rain on the roof. 🌧️

And another learning point for day 14
Austria has speed guns 🚐📖

Sunday 15 March 2026 — Wernberg, Austria

Day 15 — Change of plan in the Alps
Carinthia, Austria 🇦🇹

Tonight we’re sitting in a wonderful little restaurant and pub in a village above Villach, not far from one of the lakes.

It wasn’t our planned stop. The place we had originally chosen was closed, and for a moment that familiar little ripple of stress appeared. A few deep breaths, a quick look back at George for suggestions, and this place popped up.

What a find.

Great mountain views, a large quiet car park with just us in it, and a really lovely meal in the pub. We were made to feel very welcome, and as we left the waitress smiled and said, “See you tomorrow.”

Brilliant.

The day itself started slowly. It was hard to leave such a beautiful spot this morning and the pull to stay another night was strong. In the end it was the right decision though — the temperatures are dropping quickly and we’ll just have to come back when the weather is warmer.

The drive itself was straightforward. Relaxing for me in the passenger seat, perhaps a little less so for Richard with roadworks and lane changes along the way.

But the scenery through the Alps was simply jaw-dropping.

Huge mountains rising on every side with snow still covering the peaks. At one point we even passed an open ski run — people carving down the slopes while the lifts carried the next skiers steadily back up the mountain.

One of those days where the journey itself becomes part of the experience.

Red sky at night is hopefully a good sign for tomorrow.

I’ve already found a great bike route for us, so all being well we’ll be out exploring again in the morning 🚴‍♀️

Today’s little learning point? Get out of the campsites more often and look for these smaller private stopovers. No facilities, but when you’re fairly self-sufficient that really doesn’t matter — as long as it’s not too cold.