Matilda on Tour - Austria Really Took Us by Surprise 🇦🇹
We only meant to pass through Austria… but somehow it became one of our favourite parts of the whole journey 🇦🇹
Monday 5 May — Near Villach
Day 65 — Austria wasn’t in the plan
Austria 🇦🇹
Today was meant to be an easy one — just 30 miles to the next lake.
We packed up early and hit the road, only to run into a closed road off the motorway. No big deal… until a few minutes later we found ourselves heading straight through the Karawanks Tunnel.
That’s when it clicked — Austrian border.
No vignette.
A quick pull-in, phones out, slight panic for ten minutes — then all sorted and back on the road again.
After that the day became more about finding somewhere to stay than sightseeing. Villach was nearby, so I did what I usually do these days… asked George 😄
And it worked out pretty well.
We’ve landed right on the lake at Faaker See — Camping Anderwald — a proper rustic site. No set pitches, just park where you like, with hook-up available everywhere.
We’re parked sideways with a full lake view — brilliant.
After yesterday’s big cycling day, Richard was ready to chill, so I headed out for a solo walk up Tabor Hill, just outside the campsite.
A steep climb, with more than a couple of photo stops along the way.
Not quite the simple 30-mile day we had planned…
but one that gave a bit more than expected.
Tuesday 5 May - Near Villach
Day 66 — Water, wheels and a proper Austrian lunch
Austria 🇦🇹
We’ve been out exploring on the bikes today. There’s so much water in this area — the first half of the ride was spent weaving around it and crossing it.
We spotted a good place for coffee and ended up staying for lunch as well. A proper Austrian bar — we both went for beef soup with cheese dumplings and added a portion of chips.
Great choice… but blimey, the portions were huge — even Richard couldn’t finish it.
After lunch we picked up the cycle path along the river into Villach. It’s a nice town — not spectacular, but full of those colourful Austrian buildings, with the river running right through it. Just the sort of place to wander, grab a drink and chill for a while.
We discovered a cycle path that led almost all the way back to the campsite — proof that we really need to start investigating these routes properly before setting off. 😄
It’s been a good stopover, but tomorrow we’ll nudge a little closer to home and see a bit more of this stunning country.
Wednesday 6 May — Golling
Day 67 — Back into the Alps
Austria 🇦🇹
Another move today — around 120 miles — and now we’re just a short train ride from Salzburg.
We’ve landed at Camping Torrenerhof in Golling. First impressions were… what?! 😄 Very rustic.
The sun was shining, and a quick recce of the area told us we’d landed somewhere pretty special
Train into Salzburg nearby, right on a national cycle route, surrounded by stunning mountain views — and even a proper Austrian pub just outside the campsite. We checked the menu… definitely our sort of place 😄
Proper Austrian Alps.
Oh — and a great walk straight from the campsite too.
George, you’ve done us proud 😄
Thursday 7 May — Golling
Day 68 — Into the Gorge
Austria 🇦🇹
After a wet night we woke to grey skies, clouds hanging over the mountains, and that stillness you often get after rain. Even the air smelled different — damp woodland and fresh pine.
We headed out up the valley following the Tauern cycle route towards Werfen.
Once the route joined the main road the climb began, but the views more than made up for it.
Then came the reward.
The road dropped down into the narrowing gorge, an alpine river rushing alongside us with the Salzburg railway running through the valley beside it.
Coffee started calling just as a bakery appeared — perfect timing. We picked up a couple of pastries and sat watching the world go by.
By the time we got back on the bikes for the journey back, the wind had picked up and most of the ride back through the gorge was straight into a strong headwind, with - sudden gusts pushing us sidewards.
Reaching the top again, we both agreed the climb hadn’t been as bad as expected.
Easy to say on e-bikes 😄
The weather turned as a wet front moved through, but we really can’t complain.
A chilled afternoon followed before we headed out to the waterfall — absolutely stunning, a lot more of an uphill climb than we were expecting.
Local folklore links the waterfall and gorge with pilgrims travelling to the nearby church of St Nikolaus. The swirling pool beneath the falls became known as the “Witches’ Cauldron,” with the roar of the water and dark caves adding to the mystery surrounding the area for centuries.
After a busy day, we’d both worked up a good appetite, so it was time to try the local food — lamb with noodles followed by hot raspberries and ice cream. Delicious.
PS: First time the waterproofs have been needed in 68 days — we’ve been totally blessed.
Friday 8 May
Day 69 — A city day
Austria 🇦🇹
A short train ride this morning and suddenly we were right in the middle of Salzburg.
We headed off towards the river and walking through Mirabell Palace gardens, beautiful and immaculately manicured, with grand statues, fountains and tree-lined paths giving the whole place a peaceful, timeless feel.
Among the perfect flowerbeds and grand avenues, it was the strange little dwarf statues that caught my eye most — full of character, humour, and centuries of stories.
There’s no denying it’s a beautiful city — clean, orderly, and full of grand buildings and impressive views, especially from the castle looking out over the rooftops and surrounding mountains.
Salzburg has a calm, elegant feel to it, and wandering through the old streets beside the river made for a really enjoyable day. The fortress, gardens and little hidden corners all added something different.
We’ve walked miles today and our legs definitely know it, but it’s been one of those days we’ll look back on very fondly.
Saturday 9 May — Wolfgangsee
Day 70 — Lakeside again
Austria 🇦🇹
A short hop today, heading for Wolfgangsee and another lakeside stop.
We’ve definitely gone from quiet and rustic to full-on holiday resort territory.
We’re staying at Seecamping Appesbach. Large pitches, a glimpse of the lake from the van, and a fabulous view of the lush green hills behind us.
We left the rain behind in Golling and found the sunshine again here.
Richard was ready for a quieter day after yesterday’s mammoth sightseeing session, so I headed out for a solo ride to explore the area. Fantastic cycling here — routes everywhere and cyclists absolutely everywhere too.
St Wolfgang is a lovely Austrian town — beautifully painted buildings, cafés spilling out onto the pavements, and ice-cream parlours everywhere. Another fab experience. The decorated Maypoles around town were part of Austria’s traditional spring celebrations.
And one final spot for the day — what I’m pretty sure was a beech marten scurrying up a tree.
Sunday 10 May — Wolfgangsee
Day 71 — Sunshine, sausages and lakeside wandering
Austria 🇦🇹
We’ve been spoilt again today with warm sunshine from start to finish.
Setting off on the bikes, we’d only gone about three miles before stopping for brunch. Bratwurst was on the menu, bringing back memories of our time in Lemgo and Berlin — although definitely more Austrian than German… two skinny sausages rather than the big German ones 😄
We headed round the lake towards St Gilgen, following a really scenic route with ever-changing views across the water and mountains beyond. The birdsong seemed louder than ever this morning.
There was a charity run taking place through the town — it was lovely to see lots of children taking part.
St Gilgen had a softer, more relaxed feel, with flower-filled balconies, little waterfront cafés and mountains rising steeply behind the lake.
On the way back we made our way into St Wolfgang and treated ourselves to enormous ice-cream desserts.
Sitting at the side of the lake tonight watching the shadows on the water. We really are so lucky.
Monday 11 May - Mondsee
Day 72 — Rain, cake and country lanes
Austria 🇦🇹
A change of scenery today. Just a short drive and we arrived at Camp Mondseeland, around 4km from the lake and set high up on the hillside — but what a cracking place.
The Austrian campsites really are impressive. Clean, organised, great little shops, and spotless modern facilities.
It didn’t take long before we were back out on the bikes, riding glorious undulating lanes with views across Irrsee almost the whole way. Before long we’d picked up the Tauernradweg again.
Just as we reached the far end of the lake the rain arrived — and we’re not talking drizzle. Torrential.
Luckily another cycle route appeared heading our way, along with the perfect café stop. A very good excuse to sample the cake 😄
By the time we left, the rain had eased, although the temperature had dropped dramatically.
We were lucky with our timing. We’d only just made it back to the van before the next deluge arrived.
So the afternoon turned into a rare treat — a chilled few hours in the van listening to the rain hammering down outside.
This evening I followed the chapel circular walk from the campsite, passing the tiny Ritzen and Pensau chapels hidden in the forest. Such a peaceful walk, with birds singing everywhere.
The wildflower meadows are everywhere - stunning
The bottom chapel was a one mile hike up a steep forest road - obviously well looked after
We really were hoping for better weather the next day especially as this site has an ACSI award as one of Europe’s top cycling campsites but it wasn't to be.
Austria has really surprised me. I’ve absolutely loved our time here — although maybe having a tiny bit of Austrian blood somewhere back through the family helped 😄
It’s such a beautiful country — clean, green, organised, with mountains and lakes around almost every corner. The people have been friendly and welcoming wherever we’ve stopped, and the cycling has been fantastic too.
From rustic Alpine campsites to peaceful evenings by the lakes, Austria has quietly become one of the real highlights of this trip 🇦🇹
