Matilda on Tour — Five Days in Peñíscola

Tuesday 4 February — Peñíscola
Day 17 · From the mountains to the Mediterranean

Peñíscola, Castellón Province, Valencian Community, Spain

We woke to frost and early sunshine spilling over the mountains — a beautiful last morning after five nights in this spot. With food and gas running low, it was time to move on.

After the usual van routine — bikes loaded, electric unplugged, fridge locked — we set off for Peñíscola, just 100 kilometres away. Driving back through the mountains gave us views we’d missed on the way in, the traffic picked up as we reached lower ground.

A brief hiccup when the sat nav lost power (a rogue euro coin was to blame!) sent us detouring for fuel and coffee — always a good fix. Aldi followed, then a quick rethink when our chosen campsite was full. A nearby site had space, and before long we were settled again.

This place couldn’t be more different from the last — tighter pitches, rows of vans, and a busy winter crowd from all over Europe. But it’s close to the beach, near the old town, and buzzing with life. Three nights with electric for £43 feels like a bargain, and I’m looking forward to a few days soaking up the coast.

Camping El Sid - Campercontact 12598 Euro 17 per night including electric

Wednesday 5 February — Peñíscola
Day 18 · Sunshine, bikes and an easy rhythm

Peñíscola, Castellón Province, Valencian Community, Spain

Waking to clear skies and mild temperatures felt just right after the mountains. Sunshine poured into the van, the back doors were flung open, and the bikes came off the rack — this was more like what I’d been expecting from the coast.

I’m continually surprised by how simple life feels in a 6.4 × 2.4 metre space. A bit of rearranging, a few sprays of cleaner, a quick brush of the carpet — and the housework is done.

Breakfast was unhurried: fresh fruit, Greek yoghurt with oats, toast and boiled eggs — the perfect start to the day.

We headed out on the bikes and spent the day pottering , covering around 13 miles. Lunch was in a local port of Benicarló — a relaxed café with outdoor seating. Coffee, savoury pastries and cake hit the spot before we followed the coast road back towards Peñíscola, riding close to the beach with plenty of stops to take photos and enjoy the sunshine.

The old town was our final stop, where we found a bar for a cold beer before heading back to camp for the evening. The tourist areas are quiet at the moment — plenty of cyclists along the promenade, but most of the hotels and seafront bars are still closed.

Just sunshine, bikes, and time to spare.

Thursday 6 February — Peñíscola
Day 19 · A wander through the old town

Peñíscola, Castellón Province, Valencian Community, Spain

We left the bikes behind today and walked into the old town of Peñíscola. It took a little longer than planned, thanks to an impromptu beer stop — a sure sign we’re properly on holiday.

The old town really is a gem, and we spent a good while wandering the narrow streets, taking it all in. Perched above the sea, with its walls, white buildings and flashes of colour from balconies and doorways, it’s a lovely place to explore at an easy pace.

Since arriving in France we hadn’t met any other British travellers, so it was a surprise to meet a couple on our way out of the campsite — and later discover that our neighbours for the night were British too.

Friday 7 February — Peñíscola
Day 20 · A small mission and an easy lunch

Peñíscola, Castellón Province, Valencian Community, Spain

We set off on the bikes this morning in search of a motorhome shop, hoping to replace a hosepipe that had somehow turned itself into a sieve. In the end, the shop didn’t stock what we needed, but we did come away with a new hosepipe. With a bit of tinkering from Richard using the old connector, we’re hoping it does the job.

The ride wasn’t wasted though. We finished up with lunch by the harbour, sitting in the sunshine and watching the world go by. Richard was more than happy with his sausage, egg, and chips — sometimes the simple things really do hit the spot.

Saturday 8 February — Peñíscola
Day 21 · Hills, sunshine and an easy ride

Peñíscola, Castellón Province, Valencian Community, Spain

Another sunny day, still with a chilly breeze — but no complaints from us.

The morning was an easy one. I spent some time practising French, possibly not that useful in Spain, then finished one book and started another. Once the practical jobs were done — food, water, and the usual van admin — we had lunch and set off on the bikes.

It didn’t take long to reach the countryside and the hills beyond. After one brief wrong turn, we were soon on quieter roads, climbing steadily through orchards of oranges, lemons and olive trees. The views were worth every pedal stroke.

From the top, the route rolled gently before a glorious seven-mile descent into Benicarló. A couple of careful turns later — avoiding the town’s one-way system — we arrived in the centre, surrounded by impressive buildings and churches.

We finished the day with a couple of beers by the harbour before heading back to the van.

Another very good day.

Five days in Peñíscola have given us a really easy rhythm — good cycling, time to wander, and plenty of sunshine mixed with proper rest days. It’s been a comfortable place to pause for a while, but tomorrow we pack up and move on again.
More to come.