Matilda on Tour — First Days in Bosnia

Friday 3 April - Blagaj

Day 34 — A change of plan, a new country, and something different again
Bosnia and Herzegovina 🇧🇦

This morning the wind had eased and it felt warmer.

With it being our 50th wedding anniversary today, we decided to move on — a short drive down the coast to Omiš had felt just right.

Campsites located, everything looked just perfect.

Unfortunately, the plan went a bit pear-shaped — the first site wasn’t available, and the second was just too exposed to the wind.

After a bit of deliberation, we decided to carry on inland into Bosnia, hoping for something more sheltered and a little warmer. We’ll see.

The sun appeared — a good omen.

The border crossing was seamless — three passport checks within about 200 metres, but all straightforward.

I have to say, the campsite didn’t quite match George’s description — very rustic at first glance. But once we settled in, we could see how much thought had gone into it — chairs on each pitch, big sinks, and water points, and a really warm, welcoming feel.

We were greeted with cake and a bottle of white wine. Not really my tipple these days, but it felt right to accept it.

It definitely feels different here — a bit more rugged and less polished.

Later we walked into town for dinner.

Not quite the special evening I was expecting — an empty restaurant, just the two of us, and the waiter popping by regularly to check we were alright. We forget it’s still out of season, and it gets dark earlier too.

We will definitely remember this anniversary.

Saturday 4 April — Blagaj

Day 35 — What a difference the sunshine makes
Bosnia and Herzegovina 🇧🇦

What a difference the sunshine makes.

Waking up surrounded by mountains, with blue skies, not a cloud in sight, and complete stillness — it makes such a difference.

It didn’t take long before we were out on the bikes, heading towards Mostar.

A fabulous ride in — plenty of hills as we climbed up from the valley floor, passing through villages with that slightly Mediterranean feel, houses not quite finished and washing hanging over the balconies.

We crossed over a bridge as we arrived in Mostar — a great first view of the old bridge, and it really was stunning. The famous Stari Most, rebuilt after the war, sits right at the heart of the old town and draws people in from all over.

Arriving into the old town, we locked up the bikes and wandered through the cobbled streets towards the bridge, busy with day-trippers.

As we made our way onto the bridge, there was a man collecting money before jumping from it, and below, speedboats lined up on a small beach, ready to take tourists up the river.

The stalls were so colourful, full of all sorts of tourist memorabilia, and added to the bustle of it all.

We didn’t linger too long. After a look around, we headed back to retrieve the bikes and went in search of somewhere for lunch.

Perfect in the end — a great spot for people watching, good food, and sunshine.

An easier cycle back — we joined the main road and it was as flat as it comes. Not the most bike-friendly place though, with quite a bit of honking going on at times.

The ride back took us through the valley, past vineyards and even the small airport, all set against the mountains — a really beautiful setting.

Back at the site, the kindness continued. Yesterday we were welcomed with wine and cake, and today our hosts turned up with bowls of soup, more cake, and beers.

Back at the van, relaxing in the late afternoon sunshine — a real treat.

Sunday 5 April — Blagaj

Day 36 — Sunshine, Bikes and a Ride to Remember
Bosnia and Herzegovina 🇧🇦

Another glorious start to the day.

Yoga, a chat with our daughter, and then the bikes — ready and waiting, route decided.

It’s officially hot.

The awning is out — a very rare occurrence on our camping trips 🌞🌞

A really good ride up from the valley, past the airport and then up towards the hills — a mix of wild and modern, gravel tracks and good roads.

We joined the Buna river, wide and meandering through the valley, and followed a really picturesque lane that led us to a restaurant.

And what a spot. Our table was set on a little island in the middle of the river, willow trees in full spring leaf, ducks paddling upstream and then drifting back down, butterflies floating past.

It felt as though we’d gone from rugged and quiet to modern and rather posh — what a contrast, like two different worlds.

A delicious meal — steak in pepper sauce for me, a great choice, omelette and chips for Richard. We really are chalk and cheese when it comes to food.

A cold beer and a chilled red wine — such a fabulous experience.

Back on the bikes, we crossed over the river and came across a busy patio outside a hotel. A coffee stop — our first for a while — and the place was buzzing.

It’s been a fabulous day — Easter Sunday, and what a treat. Somehow it made up for our rather strange anniversary day.

Monday 6 April 2026 — Buna Valley (Blagaj)

Day 37 - Simple days, unexpected finds
Herzegovina, Bosnia & Herzegovina 🇧🇦

Another top day in Bosnia.

We’re starting to get our bearings now, and today’s route really showed it. We headed back along the river and then followed a quiet lane that slowly made its way up the Buna Valley, climbing gently alongside the Buna.

The water was incredible — deep blue, wide and slow-moving, almost drifting rather than flowing.

The hedgerows were full of colour too — yellows, pinks and whites — and we even spotted a fig tree already heavy with young fruit.

We cycled up along the river and came across Žitomislić Monastery almost by chance. Our route carried on past it, but the road soon turned into a rough track and we had to turn back. In the end, that worked in our favour. We stopped at the monastery instead, and it felt like a real find — a calm oasis tucked just off the main road to Mostar. Quiet, peaceful, and completely unexpected.

It dates back to the 15th century and has been destroyed and rebuilt more than once, most recently after the 1990s war. What you see today has been carefully restored, but it still carries that sense of history. From the outside it’s quite simple, but inside it’s incredible — full of colour, detail and a depth you can really feel.

Back in Buna, a beer and pizza overlooking the river… what a life.

The kind of day that reminds you how good this way of travelling can be.

We’re starting to think about moving on. It’s always harder when the weather’s this good and the scenery is so stunning — but there’s still so much out there waiting to be discovered.

This has been another brilliant stopover. The hospitality from our host has been first class — food and drinks appearing each evening, completely unexpected. It seems to be part of the culture here, a natural generosity and pride in making guests feel welcome, and it’s something we’ll remember long after we leave… even if it hasn’t been the best for our waistlines