A Week in Provence September 2025

This year I signed up for another Peak Tours trip — A Week in Provence. I added a night in Marseille at the start and again at the end, which gave me the chance to do some sightseeing and enjoy the city. The cycling itself was six days, with two-night stays in a few of the hotels, which made it feel much more like a holiday than a full-on point-to-point ride. Provence was beautiful, the riding was fantastic, and to top it off I had my cycling buddy Liz with me again — which made the whole adventure even better.

Friday 5 September Marseille

Marseille turned out to be a real surprise — such a beautiful place. We strolled down the tree-lined boulevards to the Old Port, where the harbour was crammed with boats of every size and shape. It’s a real tourist hub, so it didn’t take us long to find a lovely restaurant for a very late lunch (or very early dinner!). We couldn’t have picked better: the food was excellent, the waitress was warm and welcoming, and the whole place had a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. It was the perfect spot to linger, enjoy the meal, and watch the world go by.

Afterwards, we wandered along the harbour before turning into the old narrow streets. With no particular plan, it was fun just to meander and soak it all in. Eventually we made our way back to the hotel, ready for an early night after the long day’s travel.

It really was a wonderful beginning to our Provence adventure.

Saturday 6 September - Arles

We were up and out in good time for the 9:30 train. We were choosing our tickets to Arles when a friendly guy pointed out the correct machine, got us to the right place, left us to pay, and wandered off.

A minute later he popped back to say he was short of the fare for his own journey to work. No pressure at all — just honest.

It’s not something we’d normally do when we know we have been hustled, but he did it in such as lovely way we got his ticket for him. He thanked us, grabbed his ticket, and skipped down the platform to his train.

Still makes us smile now. 😊✨

We boarded the train which took us on a scenic two-hour ride through the Provençal countryside to Arles. This beautiful old town was our meeting point with the rest of the riders and the Peak Tours crew.

Our hotel, the Hotel Forum, turned out to be a real gem. Set in a beautiful old building, it offered spacious, character-filled rooms and a gorgeous outdoor pool area. If this was the standard of accommodation for the week ahead, we knew we were in for a treat.

From the moment we arrived, Arles had us under its spell. The narrow winding streets were blissfully quiet with little traffic, and everywhere you turned there seemed to be a trace of its Roman past — from the grand amphitheater and ancient theatre to hidden fragments tucked between medieval buildings. The mix of history, charm, and relaxed atmosphere made it the perfect place to begin our cycling adventure.

We spent the day exploring Arles on foot, happily soaking up the sights and sounds. One unexpected highlight was stumbling across a small garden hosting a stunning exhibition of Japanese art. The focus was on the dekotora phenomenon — elaborately decorated trucks in Japan. These aren’t just painted vehicles; they’re rolling works of art, covered in chrome, lights, intricate designs, and motifs drawn from folklore and pop culture. The photographs on display were breathtaking — far more striking in person than any picture could capture. It was a real delight to wander among these vivid images in such a peaceful setting

After a leisurely afternoon, we returned to the hotel for a refreshing swim and got ready for our group evening meal. It was a fantastic evening, meeting some really nice people. The meal was great, and we had a lively discussion about our past Peak Tours trips.

As the evening drew to a close, we headed back to the hotel for a short briefing before calling it a night. It was a wonderful day playing tourist before embarking on our cycling adventure.

Sunday 7 September - Arles to Avignon

We quickly escaped the town and rode into the picturesque countryside. I teamed up with Julie from Settle in Yorkshire, a solo traveller who was struggling to navigate with her borrowed Garmin. We cycled together for the rest of the day.

The route took us north from Arles into the Alpilles National Park, tucked between the Camargue and the Luberon. The landscape was beautiful: limestone hills, vineyards, and olive groves — just perfect cycling country.

The highlight of the morning was the stunning village of Les Baux-de-Provence. Perched high on a rocky hill, it was buzzing with tourists and offered incredible views in every direction. The climb up was our first real test of the trip — long and steady — but worth every pedal stroke.

After our brew stop, it was time to descend, and what a joy it was. These French roads are a cyclist’s dream: smooth tarmac, flowing bends, and hardly a pothole in sight.

After a fantastic lunch spread in Graveson, our next stop was the Pont du Gard aqueduct near Remoulins. The ancient structure rose dramatically above the Gardon River, its three tiers of arches perfectly balanced — an incredible feat of Roman engineering. Hard to believe it was built nearly 2,000 years ago to carry water all the way to Nîmes.

The clear water below looked inviting, and the temptation to take a dip was strong, but the steep path down — especially in cycling shoes — quickly changed our minds. Instead, we settled for ice creams and enjoyed the moment, taking in the atmosphere and the sheer scale of the aqueduct before heading on our way.

As the day went on, the temperature climbed higher and higher. We eventually rolled into Avignon and made our way to Hôtel Cloître Saint-Louis, our base for the next two nights. The hotel, a beautifully restored 16th-century cloister, was peaceful, central, and featured a lovely pool area — just what we needed after a long, hot ride.

The city walls and the Rhône offered a first glimpse of Avignon’s charm, but there was neither time nor energy left for exploring. The only thing that appealed to our overheated bodies was a dip in the cold pool. We ordered a couple of beers and relaxed by the water until around 7 p.m.

After a quick change, it was time to find some dinner. Julie joined us, along with Darius from Aberdeen, and we headed to a restaurant recommended by our tour guides. It turned out to be an excellent choice — great food, friendly service, and a lovely atmosphere.

A perfect end to a brilliant day.

Monday 8 September - Avignon Loop - The Rhone, Vaucluse and Cateauneuf-du-Pape

Todays route was covering the area north and east of Avignon and it was just a fabulous day. We got moving around 9 o’clock and cycled out of Avignon along the mighty Rhone before reaching Châteauneuf-du-Pape and entering wine country.

It was a great cycling path out of the city, leading us straight onto quiet roads that followed the river for miles. We stopped for our first brew stop just after passing through Châteauneuf-du-Pape, before continuing through a series of charming little hamlets and villages. The route was perfect — smooth cycle paths, gentle stretches, and clear views of the mountains ahead.

We began climbing just before Beaumes-de-Venise, and from there the road wound steeply upwards. It was the only major climb of the day — and it was a beast — but the view from the top made every turn worthwhile. It was the perfect spot to enjoy a leisurely picnic lunch and take it all in.

Afterward, we retraced our route back towards Avignon. A quick stop for a cold beer and a few laughs with other riders and our guide, John, rounded off the afternoon perfectly.

Another fabulous day on the bike — I feel so lucky to be able to enjoy these fantastic cycling adventures

Tuesday 9 September - Avignon to Apt

After an easy start through flat countryside, the route soon gave way to rolling hills and more dramatic scenery. Before long, we were riding through stunning limestone gorges, where villages seemed to grow straight out of the rock. The views were breathtaking — a cyclist’s dream.

Lunch was a real highlight, enjoyed in Venasque, another exceptionally pretty village perched high above the valley. Sitting on a terrace with such incredible scenery, it was hard to imagine a better place to stop.

We passed through Le Thor, then the beautiful hilltop villages of Gordes and Roussillon, both buzzing with tourists drawn by their charm and views. By late afternoon we rolled into the sleepy little town of Apt, our base for the next two nights. The hotel was fabulous — a beautifully restored old house with high ceilings and elegant rooms. The best surprise was having separate rooms. We even tossed a card for the double bed — best of three — I won 2–0, no contest!

Dinner that evening was at a fantastic rooftop restaurant, peaceful and relaxed, serving delicious food as the sun set over the hills. It had been a truly wonderful day of cycling — challenging at times, but filled with spectacular scenery, good food, and plenty of laughter.

Another lovely day.

Wednesday 10 September -The Luberon Valley

What a day — one of the best cycling days ever! After leaving Apt, we quickly started climbing on smooth tarmac, rewarded almost immediately with stunning views across the valley floor. The route meandered through picturesque hilltop villages, each requiring a steep climb followed by an equally thrilling descent.

The Luberon is simply outstanding — a true cyclist’s paradise. Most of the morning we followed clearly marked routes that made navigating this hilly region effortless and enjoyable.

The Luberon mountains dominate the area, and the region is home to many unusual plant and animal species, such as Egyptian vultures, eagle owls, and Bonelli’s eagle — though sadly I didn’t spot any on our ride. The area is also famous as the inspiration for Peter Mayle, the English author who chronicled life as an expat in A Year in Provence and other beloved books.

What an amazing place for a picnic! Johnathan really did us proud, laying out a fabulous spread of cakes, wraps, and baguettes, along with plenty of fruit, salad, cheeses, and meats — a feast fit for a king or queen!

After lunch, we descended into the valley and followed a railway for miles, before tackling a long climb into the hills to complete the circuit. The brilliant finale was the descent back into Apt, followed by a refreshing swim — just what the aching muscles needed.

It was another fabulous day and  travelling by bike has got to be the best way to explore this simply stunning region. Definitely one of my favourite days ever on a bike.

Thursday 11 September Apt - Sault via the Gorges de la Nesque

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The day began with a long 16-mile climb, gaining 2,000 feet by our first brew stop, followed by another 600 feet before we started the long descent to lunch. The views were incredible, and the sun brought a refreshing headwind to keep us cool along the way.

It was a fabulous morning, very social as we stopped to admire the views and take some photos with the stunning scenery behind us

After lunch, it was straight into the next climb, not steep but up, up, all the way. This route took took us through the Gorges de Nesque, arguably the most spectacular gorge in Provence after the Gorges du Verdon. It was an incredibly scenic route that climbed gradually through this fabulous gorge revealing ever more spectacular views. Due to the many short but low tunnels along the road that clings to the  cliff side, the route was gloriously free of traffic

By evening, we arrived in the town of Sault, with Mont Ventoux looming in the distance, waiting for us. The hotel was a cyclist’s dream, featuring two large garages equipped with plenty of stands and plug sockets for e-bikes — perfect for a group like ours.

The hotel also features a fantastic cycling museum, showcasing bikes from the Tour de France and original cycling jerseys — literally hand-knitted, which is where the term “jerseys” comes from.!

We took a short wander around Sault, stopping for a couple of welcome beers and then grabbing a pizza straight off the wagon. An early night followed, ready for the big day tomorrow — Mont Ventoux.

Friday 12 September - The ascent of Mont Ventoux

Our last cycling day today, it's come round so fast! A quick breakfast and time to get the bikes ready for our epic climb.

What a fabulous climb! This time we tackled the easiest of the three routes. By seven miles in, my legs were screaming, so a quick stop at the van for a stretch really helped. At twelve miles, we enjoyed a coffee stop with the usual array of treats before hitting the steep section — six miles of challenging switchbacks that made the summit seem closer than it really was.

The road was busy with traffic and fellow cyclists, but I got my legs into the groove and, with plenty of power, made it to the top to the sound of ABBA music. The atmosphere was electric, and the sense of pride on arrival was immense. Not bad for a young 69-year-old! I was also glad to have some battery power left in reserve.

A huge thanks to Tony for arriving with my spare battery and, of course, taking the obligatory photos. The descent followed — thirteen miles of steep roads with plenty of bends — before reaching lunch in Bédoin.

After lunch, it was straight into the next climb only another 2000 feet. OMG, it was surreal – we could see Ventoux to our left, getting closer and closer as we climbed. It was tough, overdressed from being so cold after coming down. Eventually, there was nothing for it but to stop, strip off, and rearrange the bags. Up, up, up again, and then there was the red van – such a welcome sight! Rehydrated and refuelled, it was a long flat road and then the most fantastic descent back into Sault.

What a great way to end the tour! After the end-of-tour dinner, it was all over — a truly fantastic experience. This was my third tour with Peak Tours, and once again they delivered flawlessly: excellent hotels, top-notch support, and the ability to deal with any issues that arose completely in stride.

Saturday 13 September - Marseille

Up early for our taxi ride back into Marseille for a bit of  R&R before our flight tomorrow

We arrived in Marseille about 0930 and checked into our hotel, it was the same one we stayed at the beginning of the week. Directly opposite the station ready for our journey to the airport tomorrow 

It’s was not quite as lovely as our first visit, it was raining heavily, luckily we located an Algerien shop and purchased two umbrellas at 5 euros each.

We did eventually find a nice cafe with a window seat upstairs to people watch and catch up on life.

 Eventually we were at the port, the body had definitely had enough of a walking, time for a hop on hop off bus.

Our first stop was Notre-Dame de la Garde, after a scenic drive along the coast through historic streets with the audio narration playing. The journey was fascinating, but the visit itself was a bit of a letdown — by the time we located the main area, Mass was about to start, so we barely had five minutes inside to take it all in.

After a quick refuel (my stomach had been quietly protesting all day, asking, “Where are the snacks?”), we returned to the bus stop. Thirty minutes later, in pouring rain and feeling tired, we finally hopped on and headed back to the Old Port, walking the rest of the way to the hotel.

A quick trip to the supermarket followed to pick up tea, which we enjoyed back in the hotel foyer. It had been a long, damp day, so an early night was very welcome.

Sunday 14 September - home sweet home

It had been a truly amazing trip - mixing the sightseeing with the cycling was really great. The cycling this tour has been amazing as always - Provence really is stunning and of course we were truly blessed with fabulous weather.

Thanks Liz and Julie and all the group for your company on this tour - its been brilliant.

Before I went I was thinking this would be my last epic adventure on the bike but already I'm thinking where next??