Matilda on Tour — A Pause in Ulm

Monday 9 March 2026 — Saarburg to Ulm

Day 9 — A scenic start and a long drive south
Germany 🇩🇪

We didn’t rush this morning but still managed to get away at a decent time.

The drive from Saarburg to the autobahn was wonderfully picturesque, winding up through forests and hills. The sort of roads I love to cycle through — quiet, green and gently twisting their way through the landscape.

At one point a red squirrel darted across the road in front of us 🐿️. Such beautiful little creatures and always a lovely thing to spot when you’re travelling through woodland.

Once we reached the autobahn things changed rather quickly. It was fine for the first part of the journey but then the traffic began to build.

Today turned out to be quite a long drive — around 455 km 🚐 — and as the traffic increased we passed two accidents where cars had clearly been shunted from behind by drivers unable to stop in time.

There were traffic jams with miles of lorries creeping slowly up what felt like endless hills. My nerves were definitely shaken and I have to admit I really didn’t enjoy that part of the journey — it felt a bit like Wacky Races with cars and vans weaving in and out of the lanes.

It was a good learning point though. The distance we had planned was probably just a little too far for one day.

Eventually we reached Ulm and pulled into our first proper stellplatz in Germany. It’s a large area with electric hook-up and plenty of space between the vans, and after such a long drive it felt good to finally switch the engine off

We got chatting to a German man who told us he had been to Castlemartin Ranges in Pembrokeshire many years ago doing tank training. He had also visited North Wales and Dublin. It’s always a small world when you start talking to people on the road.

Richard even had the table and chairs out for a while, although it’s quite chilly tonight. Stellplätze are curious places — lots of vans here but hardly any movement, most people with their blinds down keeping themselves to themselves.

Later this evening we headed out for a wander to get our bearings.

Just around the corner we discovered a swimming pool, and it turns out the stellplatz is actually part of a large recreation complex with a sports hall, gym and even canoeing facilities.

There wasn’t much in the way of photographs today after such a long drive, although we did come across some great wall art in an underpass 🎨.

We’re planning to stay here tomorrow and have a good look around, as we’re very close to the old town.

Not every day is about the destination. Sometimes it’s simply about getting there safely and being ready for what comes next. 🚐

Tuesday 10 March 2026 — Ulm

Day 10 - A gentle day in the city
Baden-Württemberg, Germany 🇩🇪

No lazy start this morning. We were up and walking into the city fairly early.

As usual Google Maps took us the non-scenic route — and somehow the longer one too. Still, once we reached the centre the first priority was breakfast.

A delicious panini for me and an omelette for Richard, followed by two coffees ☕.

The weather today was glorious — warm sunshine and blue skies — and Ulm has a fantastic array of large shops. At one point we wandered into a huge outdoor activity store with four floors of clothing and gear. Exactly my sort of shop. I looked carefully at everything… but managed not to buy anything 😄

After a wander through the old town — quaint houses and narrow streets, — we walked back to the van to collect the bikes.

Once we set off again it took barely ten minutes to cycle back into the city 🚴‍♀️ — a reminder of just how useful the bikes are for getting around.

Next stop was the Trek shop. One of the bikes had a broken spoke, but luckily the mechanics kindly agreed to squeeze the repair in for us.

While we waited we found a table in the sunshine and ordered some nice cold drinks, sat back and watched the world go by. It turned into a very pleasant and relaxing hour.

Back at the stellplatz I had a bit of manoeuvring practice taking the van over to the water fill point.

Driving it there was no problem at all
reversing it took a little more concentration.

I got there in the end though, and the reward was a full water tank for the grand sum of €0.70 — a bargain 🚐

The good news is we’re staying here for another two nights, so tomorrow we’ll get out on the bikes and explore the countryside around Ulm properly 🚴‍♀️☀️

Wednesday 11 March

Day 11 — Hills above the city
Baden-Württemberg, Germany 🇩🇪

A good start to the day. Heavy rain during the night had cleared by morning, although a very cold wind remained.

I used my Strava app to plot a 20 mile route. I didn’t really study the route — I assumed it would be fairly flat.

It wasn’t.

Before long we found ourselves climbing some fairly serious hills, eventually ending up high above the city near Ulm University.

It did, however, feel like the perfect place to stop for coffee.

Two drinks and two very good rolls came to €8.50 — an absolute bargain.

It felt like a long 20 miles, but an enjoyable ride all the same, rounded off with a wonderful downhill run back towards the city 🚴‍♀️.

Back at the van we had a quick turnaround before heading out again, this time on a much less glamorous mission

— Aldi and laundrette hunting. The moment had definitely arrived when the washing needed doing.

Today’s tech lesson involved a pay-by-card launderette machine and parking meter, which thankfully behaved themselves.

We may stay here another night. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

I’m beginning to realise that staying a few days in one place suits me better. It gives me time to settle and really enjoy where we are, rather than constantly thinking about the next move.